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Jerome Ryan, Peter Ryan, and Charlotte Ryan with our crew: Tibetan truck driver Lhaktse, Tibetan Land cruiser driver Sadim, Tibetan guide Konjo, Nepalese guide Gyan Tamang, Nepalese cook Palden, and Nepalese porter Pemba Rinji.

Jerome Ryan, Peter Ryan, Charlotte Ryan and crew Lhaktse, Sadim, Konjo, Gyan Tamang, Palden, Pemba Rinji. (click to enlarge)


Just 13km after leaving the main road at Sangsha on the way to Tholing, we crested a pass (5150m) and had a fantastic view of a colourful lake and surrounding hills.

Just 13km after leaving the main road at Sangsha on the way to Tholing, we had a fantastic view of a colourful lake and surrounding hills. (click to enlarge)


As we got closer to Tholing, a broad view opened across the Sutlej canyon, a wild jumble of eroded sandstone hills, with the mountains of India in the distance. Kamet (7756m) is the tallest mountain, with its snowy rounded dome. This mountain has often been mistaken for Nanda Devi.

The Sutlej canyon is a wild jumble of eroded sandstone hills with the mountains of India in the distance. (click to enlarge)


The Serkhang chorten in Tholing is bathed in an evening rainbow.

The Serkhang chorten in Tholing is bathed in an evening rainbow. (click to enlarge)


Tsaparang is 21km west of Tholing (Zanda). From left to right are the Chapel of the Prefect, the Yamantaka Temple, the Red Temple, and the White Temple. The trail then climbs to the former residential quarters, where monks' cells were tunneled into the clay hillside. Finally, the route goes into the hillside and through tunnels before emerging in the ruins of the palace citadel at the very top of the hill, with the Demchog Temple just visible to the left. Photographing inside the buildings was strictly forbidden.

Tsaparang is 21km west of Tholing (Zanda). From left to right are the Chapel of the Prefect, the Yamantaka Temple, the Red Temple, and the White Temple. (click to enlarge)


From the Citadel at the top of Tsaparang, we had a wonderful view back towards the entrance, across the marvelously eroded valleys around the site. In the middle, just to the right of centre is the Temple of Lotsava Rinchen Zangpo.

From the Citadel at the top of Tsaparang, we had a wonderful view across the marvelously eroded valleys around the site. (click to enlarge)


Immediately to the right of the door is a 5m-high guardian figure, blue Vajrapani (Tib. Chana Dorje). The significantly elongated torsos, a typical Guge trademark, have been broken open, exposing the straw. This has since been closed with what looks like white plaster. To the left of Vajrapani is an empty pedestal that used to contain a statue of Tara. Photo - Weyer/Aschoff: Tsaparang, Tibets Grosses Geheimnis.

Immediately to the right of the door of the White Temple in Tsaparang is a 5m-high guardian figure, blue Vajrapani (Tib. Chana Dorje). (click to enlarge)


Along the back wall is the cycle of Akshobhya (Guhyasamaja), the five Tathagatas each with three heads and six arms, garbed in rich bodhisattva ornaments and crowns. On the far left of the wall is my favourite, a beautiful Ratnasambhava, painted in Kashmiri style with the faces and bodies elongated, the waists are very narrow, and the abdomens slightly bulging. They have well-developed, almost breast-like pectoral muscles, although their multiple arms are thin and spidery. Photo - Weyer/Aschoff: Tsaparang, Tibets Grosses Geheimnis,

In the Demchog Temple in Tsaparang is Ratnasambhava, his face and body elongated, the waist very narrow, and the abdomen slightly bulging. (click to enlarge)

Updated: February 2009. Click on an image to see the FULL size with a caption.


Tibet Guge Kingdom - Tholing and Tsaparang

Tholing (also spelled Toling) and neighbouring Tsaparang are the ruined former capitals of the ancient Guge Kingdom of Ngari in Western Tibet, 190km south west of Mount Kailash. After the assassination of the anti-Buddhist king Langdharma (842), one of the king's sons, Wosung, established the Guge kingdom at Tsaparang, west of Lake Manasarovar and Mount Kailash. By the 10th century, it was a wealthy centre supporting several thousand people, and the great Guge king, Yeshe O (947-1024) began to nurture an exchange of ideas between India and Tibet.

Yeshe O sent the young monk Rinchen Zangpo (958-1055, also spelled Sangpo) to study in India. The monk returned 17 years later to become one of Tibet's greatest translators of Sanskrit texts and a key figure in the revival of Buddhism across the Tibetan plateau. Rinchen Zangpo built 108 monasteries throughout western Tibet, Ladakh and Spiti, including Tholing and Tsaparang. He also invited Kashmiri artists to paint the unique murals still visible today.

It was partly at Rinchen Zangpo's request that Atisha, a renowned Bengal scholar and another pivotal character in the revival of Tibetan Buddhism, was invited to Tibet. Atisha spent three years in Tholing before traveling on to central Tibet.

The kingdom fell into ruin just 50 years after the first Europeans (Father Antonio de Antrade) to enter Tibet arrived in 1624, after a siege by the Ladakhi army, with merciless support from Muslim mercenaries. From the 1680s until the early 20th Century the region was largely deserted, with its great history and cultural treasures forgotten and undisturbed. Guge remains historically important as the repository of an otherwise vanished artistic style and the source from which an invigorated Buddhist faith spread its light over Tibet.

In 1932-33 Italian Tibetologist Giuseppe Tucci (1894-1984) visited Western Tibet and chronicled with text and photographs many of the temples. In 1948 Lama Anagarika Govinda (1898-1985), a German Buddhist monk, came to Tsaparang and Tholing with his wife Li Gotama who took many photographs. Thanks to Tucci and Govinda we know what the temples looked like before the arrival of the Red Guards in 1967. They destroyed many of the statues and in Tholing a number of buildings, before closing down the sites and leaving them to the mercy of wind and weather throughout the years of the Cultural Revolution.


My Top 5 Memories Of Tibet Guge Kingdom

1. Tsaparang White Temple - the best Buddhist art I've ever seen, along with beautiful partially destroyed statues of Hayagriva and Vajrapani

2. Tholing White Temple - the second best Buddhist art I've ever seen

3. Tholing Chortens - 108 clay chortens falling back into the earth from whence they came and four large chortens at the corners of the complex

4. Tsaparang setting - spectacular site of the Guge Kingdom, set up the ridges of a clay hill, with tunnels required to get to the top

5. Colourful hills and cliffs - colourful hills just after Sangsha followed by the sandstone cliffs eroded into fantastic shapes as we neared Tholing